Day 15 Thursday - Maligne Lake

After breakfast we drove the Maligne Lake road - the first 10 minutes of the drive there's lots of charred and fallen trees from the fire and it looks quite post apocalyptic. Our first stop was Medicine Lake - this is 7 km long and the water disappears at points in the year when it drains away into small underground holes.  Apparently in days gone by people attempted to plug it with mattresses, piles of magazines etc!

The road ends at Miligne Lake and we had a boat trip booked for just after noon. The weather was beautiful, and the scenery was stunning with the blue water and snowy mountains as a backdrop.

 

We boarded our small boat and took the half hour ride up up the lake spotting glaciers on the way. Then we reached Spirit Island which is protected and only the indigenous tribes are allowed to set foot there. Our boat stopped to the side and we could disembark to see the island close at hand. It's a mystical place, definitely a highlight of the trip for me.

The boat then made it's way back up to the launching area and we had a late lunch sitting outside in the shade, as the sun was strong.

We made our way back to Jasper and took the car for a wash - it's white and the remote cabin adventure saw it gain a lot of mud. We shopped for food (challenging, no kitchen here), then returned to Pine Bungalows. We had a walk about the grounds in the evening and Bethany made S'mores after lighting the fire basket.

Day 14 Wednesday - Jasper

The temperature outside was below zero last night but the stove kept going low into the small hours so it was warm enough getting up. We packed the car and waved goodbye to Julia and Gary before setting off for Meitte to go to the hot springs, which took about 1.5 hours. It was a beautiful sunny morning and we noticed that the larch trees have turned yellow the past few days.

The hot springs are a modern version the original ones founded in the 1930s. There's several pools with different temperatures - we mostly stayed in the one that feels like a hot bath! The mountain scenery is stunning and it wasn't too busy, as it's not somewhere the tour buses reach.

After our dip we continued our journey to Jasper and got coffee and cinnamon buns at the local bakery and had a wonder about town. It seems to be recovering well from the fire although some residents are still in temporary housing. The main street is full of campervans so tourism has returned.

At about 5 pm and we checked into Pine Bungalows where we're staying for 3 nights. We were surprised to find a well regarded on-site restaurant and had tasty food for supper. In the evening we went to the Jasper planetarium - it was clear night so we saw the milky way and other stars and planets via their fancy telescopes. This is a dark sky reserve and as amateur you can observe the cosmos with guidance from the staff who are very enthusiastic.

Days 12 + 13 Monday + Tuesday- Rock Lake Park

Breakfast was served at the hotel and we had tasty vegetarian omelettes. After packing the car we walked down to the Sunwapta waterfalls before heading off for Jasper. The trees became sparse and charred in areas from wildfires that struck the area in 2024. Once in Jasper we stopped for coffee then bought supplies to cook on a griddle at our off grid cabin.

Out of Jasper the green trees returned and we had a two hour drive to Rock Lake Park where our cabin is - the last 27 km is on a gravel road then the driveway to the cabins turns to a mud track. We were relieved to arrive and meet Gary who showed us our cabin (there's only 3) and explained the local hikes. The stove was already lit and the cabin is simple and cosy.

By this time it was gone 5 pm and we unpacked, chilled out and Bethany made mushrooms burgers for tea. It is now getting dark and it's so quiet…

Day 2 in the cabin, we got the wood burner going as it was around zero outside. We had breakfast then went on the Mumm Creek Trail, through the woods and crossing the creek twice. This was challenging - Bethany waded through and I took my boots and socks off and went barefoot. The sun was out and we sang songs as this is bear country.

We had lunch in the cabin then drove to the Willmore view point, and did a short hike to the lookout over Rock Lake and surrounding mountains. Very unspoiled, this is a rural area, popular for horse riding, fishing, with some industry around logging.

In the evening Bethany cooked again. She has taken some beautiful pictures of the wildlife and stars - but will have to wait to upload as patchy WiFi.

 

Day 11 Sunday - Icefields Parkway

Today we set off to drive the Icefields Parkway - this is a 232 km stretch of highway with soaring rocky mountain peaks that connects Lake Louise with Jasper. It's considered one of the most beautiful roads in the world with many recommended stopping points. The first for us was Crowfoot Glacier and then we moved to Bow Lake, which shimmers with a turquoise hue.

Our next stop was for Peyto Lake - parking was challenging but after a delay we got a space and walking to the viewpoint we saw the cutest dog and had to take a photo!

An awesome view awaited us at the top of the path - it’s one of the most iconic photo ops in the Rockies and there was quite a crowd up there so we moved on again fairly quickly.

The next stop was Mistaya Canyon with rushing water from Peyto Lake that has carved the twisting narrow canyon. We had a picnic lunch after our walk around the canyon, then headed off again.

At the next stop we looked for goats high in the mountains - someone pointed two out as white spots! The weather was getting lovely and warm so we changed our clothes ready to hike at our next stop.

The Parker Ridge Hike is a 2.5 km climb up to the ridge, then you walk along the top and gradually get the most spectacular views of the Saskachewan Glacier - we met only a handful of people altogether and no one was at the top when we were there so it was very peaceful and serene.

It was getting toward suppertime when we arrived at our hotel, the Sunwapta Falls Rocky Mountain Lodge - we had some supper and will soon head for bed. The weather has been so clear and sunny making all the stops today extra beautiful.

Day 10 Saturday - Lake Louise

We had a tasty breakfast wrap then got the bus to Lake Louise. Public parking is allowed plus there are lots of buses and tours so people are there in droves. We left the busyness behind as we hiked up to Mirror Lake, a small glassy alpine tarn with a rock above called The Big Beehive. 

The track continues up to The Little Beehive which is a lookout with 360 degree views of the mountains with Lake Louise below.  Dropping back down a little there is the Lake Agnes Tearoom - amazingly they run this establishment with no road to take supplies in or out, everything is hiked up and down. We had a great tea and cake experience and chatted to an elderly couple - turns out he was born in Leith, his family leaving when he was a child. He has returned for visits and has cousins there still.

Back down we had to catch two buses to get back to the hostel.  We ate at the in house restaurant again and Bethany had poutine - this is a famous Canadian comfort food made with fries, fresh cheese curds and hot brown gravy. It’s very satisfying after a day of hiking.

 

Day 9 Friday - Consolation Lake and Lake Moraine

This morning we left the hostel at 7 am - the car needed defrosting and there was fresh snow dusting the mountain tops. We got some supplies from the bakery then headed to the Gondola parking where we met up with our Parks Canada guide for today's hike.  

We boarded a bus and travelled for about 20 minutes before starting the small group hike with our guide Ardell.  On the hike to Consolation Lake she gave interesting information about the area and animals living there. Ardell's husband does grizzly bear tours around Port Rupert. The last part of the hike is a challenge as there's large boulders to climb over. We enjoyed the chat with the other people in the group, some Americans and a couple of German girls. 

Back at the start we ate packed lunch then viewed Lake Moraine from the rock pile and the sky became a bit grey but as we walked down and along the shoreline the sun shone and the water sparkled.

Back at the start we got the bus to Lake Louise Village and did our laundry at the hostel before having supper and off to bed. We both still have a bit of a cough so sleep is needed.

Day 8 Thursday - Yoho National Park

Today we were on the road by 10 am for the drive to Golden in Yoho National Park. It rained heavily most of the way but after stopping for brunch it brightened up and we headed for Wapta falls. Satnav had us on a gravel road which wasn’t for tourists but we did see a small black bear eating in the bushes. We found the correct route and walked to the falls which are most impressive at 30 meters high and 150 meters wide. You hear the noise of the powerful water before you see it and the spray coming up makes it appear misty.

The next stop was Emerald Lake, a stunning jade coloured glacial lake surrounded by mountain peaks. We rented a canoe and it was peaceful paddling, and we saw two weddings on the shoreline.

Once back on the highway we soon turned up a winding road into the mountains until we reached Takakkaw falls.  The glacial water cascades down from 373 meters crashing into the valley.

We ended the day at Lake Louise Village where we're staying at the hostel - we have our own room and it has a relaxed alpine style. 

Day 7 Wednesday - Kootenay National Park

We're both feeling sneezy still so we didn't rush about, with checkout being 11 am. We packed our things then did a little shopping and had a maple latte at Communitea before heading onto Highway 1. At Castle Junction route 93 leaves Banff National Park and enters Kootenay.  Our first stop after an hour was at Marble Canyon which is a deep narrow gorge. There are several bridges which crisscross back and forth giving great views. 

After this we started walking along the Paint Pots trail but realising it was long, we went back to the car to eat our salad before driving further up the trail head and taking up the walk again. It's an interesting walk with a boardwalk taking a path across meadow and marshland. At the end are three iron rich pools that bubble up in an orange ochre colour. 

After the hike we drove the final hour to Radium Hot Springs - the plan was to visit the hot springs but we ran out of time. We have further hot springs on our itinerary when we reach Jasper.

Day 6 Tuesday - Sunshine Meadow

I was feeling rough this morning but we had the rental car to pick up at 10 am from the Banff Fairmont Hotel, which is built in the style of a Scottish Baronial Castle and costs around £700 a night! Lots of rich American tourists around as expected. I will get a photo when we return the car. Bethany went to hire bear spray.

We navigated out of town okay and then headed to Sunshine Village, about 10 miles out of Banff with a gondola operating in summer to take passengers up to Sunshine Meadow, a high altitude alpine hiking area. They got their first snow fall on 30 August although that melted; by 20 September they close and start to prepare for skiing which starts in November.

After the gondola there's a chairlift and at this point you reach 8,000 feet above sea level and there's 360 degree views of the Rockies, and paths run through the alpine meadows and around three beautiful lakes.

It's a magical place and the weather got sunnier and warmer as we hiked through the meadow with amazing views in every direction. 

After leaving Sunshine Meadow we drove to Lake Minnewanka and Two Jack Lake which are about 15 mins out of Banff. We parked easily and walked along the shoreline. They are both very scenic and quite peaceful at that time of day, around 5pm.  After this we went back to Canmore and had an early night.

Day 5 Monday - Banff

This morning we had a lie in til 8.45 am - we both have colds we are fighting!  It was raining again so we had a relaxed breakfast at Communitea.  Then we then got the bus to Banff where the weather was okay, and went to the visitors centre to purchase our Park Pass which we will need from tomorrow onwards.

Banff is very scenic to walk around - there are various bridges that cross the river and the mountains dominate overhead. It's also very busy with tour buses and we're glad to be staying in Canmore.

Next we took the path towards the Cave and Basin which is an underground system of sulpherous hot springs, used by the  indigenous people for thousands of years.  When the settlers arrived with the railway, they tried to claim it for profit, but the government stepped in to protect the site and built a heated swimming pool which operated from 1914-1990s. The swimming pool is now covered over but the natural pools are home to some rare tiny snails that are endangered but live well in the warm mineral waters. They are only the size of an apple pip! 

We returned into town and visited the Cascade of Time garden which was stunning - lots of terraces, gazebos and ponds - and popular with wedding couples as two were getting photos taken.  

We had a dessert at D Spot which was very tasty, then caught the bus back to Canmore, stopping for some groceries on the way into town. There was a lovely sunset from our balcony tonight.

Day 4 Sunday - Canmore

This morning we hired mountain bikes - the plan was to bike the Goat Creek Trail but lack of signage and closed roads proved a challenge. We ended up at the trailhead for Grassi Lakes which was on our list of hikes so we did the trail and it was well worth it - there's two sparkling turquoise lakes below grey limestone cliffs and also great views of Canmore down below. 

Hungary for lunch we pivoted our plans and cycled back into town - on the outskirts is a gardening centre with The Wagashi Teahouse - the Japanese cuisine was delicious and we agree this is a local hidden gem.

As we left the rain was coming on; we stopped at the Three Sister Viewpoint but there was thick cloud cover. Back in central Canmore it was raining heavily so we looked around some of the local gift shops then later in the afternoon we returned the bikes and went to the Everwild Nordic Spa. The clouds cleared  over the mountains so there was a beautiful sunset to watch from the hot pools, a great way to unwind after the pedal power.

Day 3 Saturday - Banff

We woke around 7 am and could hear the rain and looking out the Three Sisters were under the cover of the cloud. Hiking didn't seem a good option so we had breakfast then caught the bus into Banff which takes about half an hour. The rain had stopped when we arrived and we walked along the river - at the start of the walk the water is tranquil then gradually becomes faster flowing till you reach the Bow River Falls which are 30 feet tall and around 100 feet wide.

Walking back into town we found a great cafe called Nourish and had a tasty brunch. The rain came on again so we visited The Whyte museum which holds a collection of art, photographs and artifacts relating to the history of the area including the indigenous people who were displaced by the railroad companies.

Once we'd looked around the rain had stopped so we got on a bus for Johnston Canyon which is a gorge hike with impressive waterfalls, tunnels and pools of water carved into the limestone rocks over time.

We made it to the upper falls and back down in an hour and a half, and then returned to the base to catch the bus back to Banff and then on to Canmore where we grabbed a few bits for a picnic style tea.

Day 2 Friday - Canmore

We felt good after a long night's sleep and headed out for coffee and bagels for breakfast. After this we went for a walk along the beautiful Bow River and saw the Engine Bridge, made famous by the TV series 'The Last of Us'.  The water is a turquoise blue coming from the Bow Glacier and named by the Cree people who made bows from the Douglas fir trees growing along its banks.

At noon we joined a float tour down the river on a dingy boat - unfortunately the rain came on quite steady halfway through but it was still enjoyable, and the guide called Gregg gave lots of information about the town, how it had grown from coal mining and the railroad and has now become an outdoor sports destination. There was a bit of drama at the end of the trip when he lost is wedding ring so the bus got turned around and we went back to the riverside where the ring was luckily found okay to his relief!

We did a supermarket shop then as the rain had eased we headed off for the Policeman's Creek boardwalk through a vibrant wetland which takes you in a loop back to downtown Canmore. 

Day 1 Thursday - Edinburgh to Canmore

Our fight, which was on Dreamliner 787, left at 11.50 am and we had a comfortable journey with just a bit of turbulence in the last hour before landing at Calgary at around 1 pm lunchtime, still Thursday! The queue to go through customs, passports and to collect our luggage moved quickly and we got the Flixbus out to Canmore arriving at 4.15 pm.  I recognised the iconic Three Sisters Mountains right away!

We did a short walk to our apartment which has a nice alpine lodge feel. We unpacked and went out for something to eat, finding a nice local cafe called Communitea. 

We had a short stroll about before heading home for a long nights sleep to make up for the very long day.  We are happy to have arrived and start our adventure.